Friday, August 6, 2010


Coffee


My first Turkish coffee in Istanbul


My beloved double shot macchiato in Italy

Making coffee is an art. The Italians specialize in making fast, high-quality espresso with their state-of-the-art sophisticated machines, while the Turks individually boil the water for each coffee, using traditional methods that have been around for centuries. Each style of coffee tastes smooth and fantastic, leaving the drinker invigorated and ready for the day. Although both served in gorgeous teensy ceramic cups, the two types of coffee look quite different. Turkish coffee is always very dark and earthy, leaving a layer of ground coffee at the bottom of the cup which the sipper must be careful to avoid, while the Italian coffees often artistically use milk and come in many varieties. The Italian cappuccinos have a fluffy layer of foam and usually a fine sprinkling of cinnamon or chocolate powder, and the milk swirled into the macchiatos is gorgeously patterned on the top of the espresso shot. It is fascinating observing and experiencing how differently coffee evolved in these two different countries. Coffee originally spread from the Middle East to Italy, meaning that the Turks regularly drank coffee long before Italians, but the art has been shared to become a trademark of both countries alike.

But beyond its physical appearance, coffee strengthens social bonds. Having the same barista make your coffee every morning becomes a very personal experience. I remember how happy I was when the barista at my beloved Caffe DiMarzio automatically started making my daily morning drink, a doppio macchiato, when he saw me enter the Caffe. Everyone who worked at the Caffe always pleasantly smiled and asked me how I was doing and my plans for the day in “bella Roma.” I felt truly welcome in a country where I spoke about five words of the language. Although I wasn’t in Turkey long enough to establish a true coffee routine, I loved going to the Simit Palace and drinking a coffee hand-prepared by the woman working behind the counter. I loved how she would always smile at us while she made the coffee, despite the fact that we were so ignorant of Turkish customs and language.

Despite the cultures and the people of Italy and Turkey being completely different, everyone shares the common ground of loving good coffee. People in both countries ritualistically come to the same coffee shops every morning, getting to know the baristas. Unlike in the United States where we generally get our coffees to go from a drive-thru, Turks and Italians allow themselves a refreshing pause every morning to enjoy their caffeine, whether it be with a cornetto or a simit. Those who prepare coffee at home similarly give themselves time to enjoy the morning with family, something that seems almost necessary for sanity in our manic modern lives. Interacting with friends and family and remembering to care about them is all too forgotten, and taking the time to savor a freshly made coffee and socialize is the perfect way to remain grounded and relaxed.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Art history final paper

Talking Statues, Rome’s Secret Gossipers


by Sydney Gordon

Once upon a time in distant 15th century Rome, there lived a poor tailor by the name of Pasquino. He joyfully entertained his fellow neighbors with myriads of witty jests, always sporting a hearty smile and sparkling eyes. The lively Pasquino made sure to complete every joke with colorful facial expressions, from painfully miserable to comically exuberant. Eventually he passed on, leaving his friends to miss his clever banter. Some years after his death, an ancient marble statue of a hero rescuing a dying soldier was unearthed near the tailor’s old home. Cardinal Oliviero Carafa took a liking to the worn statue, and had it placed in a small square near the Piazza Navona in 1501. The Cardinal began sponsoring a literary competition every April 25th, in which contestants placed poems on the statue. Soon people began hanging poetry on the statue’s neck on other days throughout the year, which morphed into jokes about their fellow villagers. These gossips boldly became satires against the papal government, making them the first political mockery in Rome. Seeking to honor their beloved lampooning tailor, people dubbed this sardonic statue “Pasquino,” memorializing the jokester in marble.

But who actually was this mysterious and ruined statue? The sculpture dates back to the Hellenistic Period, around 250-200 BC. The Hellenistic period began with the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC, when his sudden decease left his Greek empire without an heir. Several of his top generals fought amongst themselves to divide his colossal realm, eventually culminating in the creation of three major Macedonian kingdoms. During this transitory period between the decline of classical Greece and the gradual rise of the Roman Empire in second century BC, Hellenistic society grew increasingly urbane and socially complex. Given the stability of the new kingdoms at the start of this period, the elite were able to focus on strengthening their cultural status via literature, science, and of course, art. Kings mainly commissioned statues for display in public, and sculptors began deviating away from the formal restrictiveness of Classical art. Rather than being rigid and unexpressive, Hellenistic sculpture features a great variety of subjects, from drunken old women to voluptuous Aphrodites, characterized by idealistic and overly dramatized body parts and facial expressions.

The Hellenistic statue known as Pasquino by modern Romans is speculated to have once decorated a public stadium. Although Bernini believed the figures to represent Alexander the Great being rescued by a soldier, and even considered the worn sculpture one of the finest pieces of ancient Rome, it is now widely accepted that they are actually figures from Homer’s Iliad. In the depicted episode from the Iliad, the young soldier Patroklos dives into battle to fight for Achilles, is killed and stripped nude by Hektor, and then his body is rescued by the elder hero Menelaus. Despite the battered appearance of the original sculpture, three copies of Pasquino exist, which allowed the artist B. Schweitzer to create a beautifully detailed reconstruction. Today three copies exist, located in the Loggia dei Lanzi, the Palazzo Pitti, and the Palazzo Braschi. The accuracy of these copies enable analysis of the work’s key features.


http://www.mlahanas.de/Greeks/Arts/Polyphemos/MenelaosPatroklos.jpg

Typical of Hellenistic sculpture, the viewer can distinguish the epic Homeric figures based on subtle physical details. The rescuer sports enormous muscles while the dead soldier is smaller and not as defined. More importantly, the two men differ in hairstyles and dress. The beard and long hair of the rescuer indicate his senior status, in contrast with the short hair and beardless face of the dead soldier. Shorter hair symbolized a lesser rank in the time of the Iliad, so the viewer would have known instantly that the dead man is young and does not hold a high position. Thus, Bernini’s conjecture that the rescued man is Alexander, who obviously held a rank of utmost importance, is incorrect. Moreover, the dress of the two figures offers evidence as to their identities. The elder hero is fully outfitted with a tunic, shield, and helmet, whereas the dead youth is strikingly naked. Those who knew the Iliad would realize that these conspicuous differences between the two soldiers were clearly an illustration of the Homeric episode of Menelaus recovering the body of Patroklos. Besides, Menelaus’ large round shield frames the figures in an eye-catching pyramidal form, with Menelaus’ helmeted head forming the peak of the pyramid. The two bodies twist in opposing directions, with Patroklos’ limp head dangling to the side and Menelaus gazing off intensely into the distance. Such a carefully constructed and powerful formation leads the viewer to grasp that the elder hero must be part of an epic rescue.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Pasquino_1.JPG

Although most of what remains of the original sculpture is the worn torso of Menelaus and a small portion of Patroklos’ chest, the Pasquino has remained a stealthy vehicle of satire for centuries. It rests in a corner of the Piazza di Pasquino, a square named for obvious reasons. The clever rhymes posted on Pasquino even inspired the creation of the word “pasquinade,” defined as “a brief and generally anonymous satirical comment in prose or verse that ridicules a contemporary leader or national event.” Despite papal laws that banned protest as heretic, crafty rebels continued inventing anti-papal satires that worried the papacy to the point that Pope Adrianus VI (1522-1523) resolved himself to silence the statue. Adrianus put the gossiping marble under nightly surveillance and threatened to throw the statue into the Tiber River, but his exertions failed. To the papacy’s dismay, the people added another sculpture to the world of wit: the gargantuan fountain Marforio.

http://www.romaspqr.it/roma/Statue/St.%20marforio.htm

Unearthed in Rome in the late 12th century, the giant Marforio dates back to the first century AD. People originally speculated that the fountain represented Jupiter or Neptune, or an emperor. Since the identity of the sculptor had been lost to antiquity, the truth remained a mystery for several hundred years. Then Andrea Fulvio, a Renaissance humanist, antiquarian, and adviser to Raphael, published his Antiquitates Urbis in 1527. In this guide to ancient artifacts in Rome, Fulvio declared the fountain to be a river god. Although it is still debated how Marforio received his name, many believe that his title derived from his old resting place in the Martis Forum, or Augustus’ Forum of Mars. The water god reclines behind a lion’s head, flanked by two small, barely noticeable dolphins that accentuate his great size. He relaxes with exposed torso, a sinuous robe draping over his legs and one arm, and as the author Mrs. Charles Macveagh enthuses,

“To make the hair and beard merge into the god’s breast and shoulders would have been simple both in conception and execution, but only a genius could have secured to the massive and supine figure that appearance of being outstretched in powerful yet melting length.”

This striking river god became the second talking statue, allowing Pasquino and Marforio to have little conversations. Ignoring all attempts by the pope to silence their political protests, people hung questions from Marforio, to which Pasquino would respond wittily. As early as 1509, the educated bookseller Giacomo Mazzocchi began gathering and distributing these satires, eventually publishing his complete collection in 1544 under the title “Pasquillorum, Tomi Duo.” Although published in Basel, a city less dominated by the papacy than Rome, the papacy still managed to suppress most copies of the book, making it a rare and valuable acquisition.

One of the many leaders mocked is Pope Leo X (1513-1521). A man of luxurious tastes, he resorted to selling off anything from cardinals’ hats to statues of Apostles to help pay for his overspending. The lucky Leo received numerous epitaphs in his honor, like the following:

Marforio:“Do you ask why Leo did not take the sacrament on his deathbed?”

Pasquino: “How could he-he had sold it!”

Pope Paul III (1534-1549) of the Farnese family was another scathingly ridiculed pope. Like many popes, he blatantly practiced nepotism, so evidenced in his elevation of two Farnese youths to cardinal positions, one of whom was Pier Luigi. The unpopular Pier had a reputation for rudeness and sodomy, so one clever pasquinade likened his image to Michelangelo’s Last Judgement, which features an unlucky man with a snake biting his sensitive area.

“Bound in Hell,

With a snake that bites him in the prick,

For the sin of breaking arses.

For this, in eternity,

Christ condemns the buggerers to the fire,

And to stand with a serpent in this sad place.”

To Pope Sixtus V’s (1585-1590) embarrassment, another conversation between Pasquino and Marforio goes,

Marforio: “You look very vulgar, Pasquino, why do you appear in the street with a dirty shirt?”

Pasquino: “My washer-woman has been made a princess”

This dialogue ridicules the Pope’s sister, who was a lowly laundress before his election. (Hachot) One exaggerated tale tells of how the irritated Sixtus struggled greatly to silence Pasquino’s incessant lampoons. He supposedly rounded up all the poets of Rome and held them in the Castel Sant’Angelo in an attempt to find the one guilty of penning the satires. After Sixtus offered great rewards, threatened religious punishment, and promised the author a spared life and money, eventually the poet gave himself up. Expecting his freedom, the poet was horrified to learn that the cruel Sixtus planned to cut his hands off so he could no longer wield a pen. This tale, written centuries ago, may be merely legend, but it attests to the influence Pasquino had over Rome. His protests clearly worried the popes significantly, for Sixtus had Marforio mov ed to the Piazza di San Marco in 1588 and then to the Piazza del Campidoglio soon after. In the late 1600s, he was moved to his final resting spot in the Capitoline Museum to “preserve a fine antique statue,” where he now lies, closed off from mocking pasquinades.

The removal of Marforio from public nightly access did not deter satirists. Soon more statues joined the gossip, until four more were added to the chatty group-

Madame Lucrezia, Il Facchino, Abbot Luigi, and Il Babuino.

http://www.italie1.com/popup.php?iddocument=6420#

The only female talking statue, Madame Lucrezia is an extremely worn and massive bust of an unidentified woman, although some believe her to be a priestess of the Egyptian goddess Isis. The 3-meter tall Madame sits in a corner of a piazza quite near the Church of Saint Mark. She is lucky enough to have been the bearer of one of the most famous pasquinades, as follows:

“What the barbarians didn’t do, the Barberini did.”

This quip harshly ridicules the decision of Pope Urban VIII (1623-1644) to commission the famed artist Bernini to strip bronze from the portico of the idolized Pantheon. Urban, always a lover of expensive magnificence and art, yearned to revitalize a decrepit St. Peter’s by building a baldacchino of bronze. Madame Lucrezia’s jibe boldly highlights the fact that even in the 1527 sack of Rome by the “barbarians” of the Holy Roman emperor Charles V (1519-1556), the Pantheon remained intact.

http://www.romeartlover.it/Talking.html

Interestingly enough, Il Facchino, or The Porter, is not an ancient statue, but rather was created around 1580 by Jacopo del Conte. The piece depicts a common water seller with cap and short-sleeved shirt holding a barrel, testifying back to the times before Sixtus V brought the aqueducts back to life. Water porters would collect water from the Tiber, then sell it on the streets. Il Facchino still rests on the side of the Palazzo de Carolis, spouting water from the center of his water casket.

http://www.romainteractive.com/shadow/immagini/italiano/bit/navona3/abate_luigi.jpg

The Abbot Luigi features a tall man dressed in toga with a head belonging to another statue, and is speculated to be an important judicial officer or emperor. He took his name from a clergyman of the Chiesa del Santa Sudario, and rests in a wall of the Basilica di Sant’Andrea della Valle.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Roma05(js).jpg

The final talking sculpture is Il Babuino, another more modern creation. In 1581 the wealthy merchant Patrizio Grandi commissioned the construction of a fountain, which was decorated with this statue. Although the artist intended for the reclining figure to represent a satyr (half-man half-goat), after Pope Pious IV (1558-1565) moved the statue to a public location, so many people mocked the unfortunately simian-looking figure that the satyr was christened, “Il Babuino,” or “The Babboon.” He now rests on the Via del Babuino near the Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli.

Political satire had its roots in these six talking statues, who have continued to demonstrate their influence and irk governments ever since the clever Pasquino was unearthed in 1501. In the early 1700s, for example, the English writer Henry Fielding wrote a play entitled “Pasquin”, which poked fun at the current government. This work, along with several of his other plays, led to the repressive Theatrical Licensing Act of 1737. The Act stated that the Lord Chamberlin must approve all plays before they could be published, which ensured the censorship of all political satire.

Regardless, Pasquino still inspires rebellious individuals today, evident in the creation of the small grassroots company, Pasquinade Films. Pasquino’s frame has never stopped being plastered with witty rhymes, deriding everything from the nepotism of popes, to the extravagant welcomes thrown for Hitler, to the sex scandals of Berlusconi. A few years ago, Roman officials decided to renovate Pasquino, an act which included removing his satirical notes and boarding up his base. Within days, dozens of statements covered the boards, saying things like, “Who turned out the lights?” His base was promptly uncovered. When I visited the statue, I was pleasantly surprised to see that it today still features messages like “The Italian Blowjob,” a poem about Berlusconi. Pasquino, the voice of the Roman people, can never be silenced.


Claridge, Amanda, Judith Toms, and Tony Cubberley. Rome: An Oxford Archaeological Guide. New York: Oxford University Press Inc., 1993.

Disraeli, Isaac. “Pasquin and Marforio.” Curiosities of Literature Volume 1 (1834): 174- 176.

“Encyclopædia Britannica.” 2010. Encyclopædia Britannica Online. 2010

“Fountains of Rome.” About Roma. .

Hachot, Dr. N. “Pasquino and Marforio.” The Border Magazine Dec. 1832: 275-279.

Jaffe, Dorothea. “Scritti Politti.” Frieze Issue 78 (Oct. 2003)

Macveagh, Mrs. Charles. Fountains of Papal Rome. Charles Scribner’s Sons, Oct. 1915.

Majanlahti, Anthony. “The Farnese,” selections from ch. 4 in The Families Who Made Rome. London, 2005.

Majanlahti, Anthony. “The Barberini,” selections from ch. 6 in The Families Who Made Rome. London, 2005.

Piperno, Roberto. “The Talking Statues of Rome.” .

Seabrook, John. “Ask Pasquino.” The New Yorker 7 June 2004. .

Smith, R.R.R. Hellenistic Sculpture. New York: Thames and Hudson Inc., 1991.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

We are coming to a close on our second week of our Rome trip, meaning we are halfway done with our study abroad! I can hardly believe we have already been living here for almost 2 weeks. I feel as if I have been here forever, but at the same time it is going by ridiculously fast. I know I sound 100% cliche, but its true. I love being able to buy fresh produce from the markets every day, especially buying bread from the Forno on the Campo de Fiori and delicious smoked meat from Viola by the boys' apartment. I love cooking :) Our apartment of girls has group dinners quite often, tonight I am going to make brown rice with veggies and chicken and soy sauce, I've been craving Asian food! Yuting, Brian, Roman, Kate, and me got sushi yesterday for lunch, rather expensive but surprisingly quite good and fresh.

Last weekend we went to Ostia Antica which was AMAZING (especially all the mosaics in the old bath houses) and then headed off to a nearby beach. I definitely was not at all equipped for the beach, I brought no sandals or a towel or a water bottle. Foolish foolish. I bought a huge bright orange towel from a random guy walking around selling them (there were tons of foreigners, presumably immigrants, selling lots of random things) and me, Mauna, and Emily shared it. The sun was super nice and the water was perfectly refreshing, such a perfect afternoon.

We left around 4:00pm, and on the way back it started thundering and raining! I don't understand weather. We got some crepes though (yumms) and then walked back to our apartment in the rain.

This week we also went to the Piazza Vittorio, I loved being able to photograph all the different exotic fruits and vegetables (spiky cucumbers?) and seafood and meat, and all the foreign vendors were really friendly. I want to go back and buy a lot of salmon and fresh veggies and fruits, it was so much cheaper than the markets around here, which I thought were cheap in the first place!

A couple days ago we also went to the Vatican (after a rather interesting entrance, aka we got in slightly illegally) where we had only a short amount of time unfortunately. But we still got to see a large amount of old beautiful art, plus the Sistine Chapel. It was SO crowded, I couldn't believe how many people were there.

Yesterday we headed to Capitoline Hill to see the museum, it was overwhelming seeing all the ancient statues, mosaics, tombstones, and paintings. Rome is so different than Seattle, there is ancient art everywhere. All the buildings are centuries old, and all are so gorgeous.

Lisa took us to her favorite gelateria, SO good. I got three sorbet flavors-mango, banana, and white peach-and all tasted like liquefied fruit. Tomorrow a bunch of the group is headed out to the same place to get gelato in celebration of Molly's 20th birthday.

I love Rome! I have already gained so much culturally from this short experience so far, I can't express it in words.

:)

Friday, June 25, 2010

Rome is amazing :)

I love Roma! We have officially been here a week-and it has been a week of life-changing experiences. I feel as though I have been constantly wandering around ancient history, beginning with the taxi ride from the airport which took me through a highway surrounded by exotic trees and columns. As soon as the taxi dropped me off at the Rome Center I was immediately overwhelmed by the centuries old buildings surrounded by modern fashionable people walking around without a glance.

After finally dropping off all my luggage at my apartment (which is beautiful and spacious and equipped with an adorable kitchen, albeit having an impossible-to-open lock), I changed into shorts and commenced exploring the area around our UW center. My first Italian meal was cheap 3 euro pizza from a little side shop, I got a delicious eggplant and artichoke slice, much better than the plane food I had been eating. The Campo de Fiori has an amazing daily market, selling tons of fresh fruits and vegetables, olive oil, wine, clothes, jewelry, meat, cheese, pasta...plus Lisa showed us many great little shops surrounding the market that sell anything from fresh cheese to awesome baked bread to prosciutto. I was pooped out from all the traveling, though, so I went back home soonish and went to sleep.

Finally after a few days I got my bearings on how to navigate the streets, the winding cobblestones are so confusing! Especially for spacially-challenged me. Finally, I have gotten a bit of an idea about how our neighborhoods relate, although I still get lost all the time.

Every day I have absolutely loved being able to buy fresh produce, it is the best thing in the world to have fresh delicious and healthy food on hand. I wish UW had a market in Red Square! I would definitely be a diligent customer. We have had many delicious meals out, from our fancy welcome dinner (4 courses! Plus wine.) to quick cheap lunches of sandwiches from Forno the bakery. Our group of girls at our apartment really enjoys cooking group dinners. We have made fresh chicken with sauteed vegetables, complete with pesto and awesome-shaped pasta. I love food!

I have barely touched upon how many amazing things I have experienced in this short time! Although before I close this post, I must say that the social aspect has been great, I love hanging out and becoming close to so many people who I would never have met otherwise :)
I must note: Shurui is awesome. I am nice to him and he likes me.

Ciao!

PS Punto is the place to buy cookies.
PPS Gilato is the shit.